All posts by ajbishop

Merci

It’s a bit frustrating to have studied French before coming to Madagascar, because most people don’t really speak French, but the ones who do, speak much better than me, and some also speak English better than I speak French. Walking around the capital city, your chance of finding a French speaker is pretty low, but when jogging or biking through the countryside, you are lucky to get more than a basic greeting in French.

People see me running their way in the morning and they want to say something. Okay, some just look away and others laugh, but some want to make a polite greeting. The problem is that many people can’t think of anything else in French except “Merci!” I’m sure they have learned “Bon Jour” and “Salut” but when surprised by a funny white guy early some morning, many can’t think of anything else but “Merci.”

I say this not to belittle their education or brag about my French comprehension skills. It is just an example of how little French is really used here. I recently went to a big workshop attended by senior government officials and many well-educated people. The opening speeches were generally in French, but one people broke-out into groups to get down to business, Malagasy was the preferred language.

I generally answer people in the language they use, and yes, a few people say “Hello” or “Good Morning.” I’m just happy that people are friendly and make an effort. It is nice to be in a generally welcoming environment :)

Summer Palace

After visiting the Queen’s main palace in Tana, I was interested to check-out the summer above just outside of town. I had been to the area a couple times before for biking and running. It’s no more than 20km outside of the city, in an area cold the Blue Hills, because of the bluish pines that are still found around there. A summer spent here couldn’t be much cooler than the main palace, based on the altitude, but maybe the idea was just to get out of town?

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Still, I could get used to waking-up to these views. Maybe there wasn’t a lot of politicking going on back then, so the queen could just enjoy the time with her family? But the defenses of this place are pretty impressive. Not only is it on top of a serious hill, but the whole compound is surrounded by steep walls with a confusing entry to slow the approach of any rivals. Inside, though, the place is pretty unassuming.

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There are two rather modest buildings. The old, more traditional black building with only a simple bed and fire for cooking, and the more modern and Western structure with a dining room on the ground floor and sleeping and lounging quarters upstairs. Out back, you find the graves of the last few generations of royalty. Nice place.

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Queen’s Palace

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After over two months in Tana, I finally made the trip up to the old Queen’s Palace that sits on top of the highest hill around the town. One friend pointed-out that the palace works as a good orienteering point since it is visible from almost anyway. When the guys came to set-up my wireless internet at my house, they explained that they had to point the antennae at the palace. Yes, it is the center of town.

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The palace looks pretty impressive from a distance even when illiuminated at night. It also makes a great backdrop for the annual fireworks on Independence Day. The problem is that in 1995, the stone facade was robbed of all contents by a huge fire that also destroyed other buildings on the compound. Since the monarchy was deposed about (almost exactly?) a hundred years before), nobody was living in the palace at the time. It was a museum of royal artifacts on the verge of being declared a World Heritage site. There are plenty of rumors about what caused the five. One person told me that people had stolen many of the artifacts and didn’t want to be caught, so they burned the whole thing to hide their tracks…?

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Anyway, the site is still totally worth a visit. Some of the artifacts are now on display in the nearby Prime Minister’s palace which is also good for a quick visit. Even if you have no interest in history, riches, and monarchies, the views from up there are just great. This is one little cafe nearby that serves a good grog (technically, “Super Grog”) and an interesting take on raclette. Tana is the kind of capital that most guide books pan, but there is definitely a bit to see here.

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Brick Season

Winter is not so cold here near the equator, but the slightly shorter days a lack of rain mean that most rice fields around here are asleep for the season. However, the fields are not silent, farmers still head out every morning to mold the soil and cultivate the land, their product: bricks.

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Yes, there are cities made of wood, and others made of concrete, but Tana is mostly a city of bricks. And the bricks don’t come from a home improvement store or a big corporation… most come from regular farmers who dig up the clay from their rice paddies, pack it into squares, and fire it in makeshift furnaces made from last year’s bricks.

I’m not too fond of the smoke I encounter when I run along the paddies in the morning, but it doesn’t pollute the city the same way the brick production puts a cloud over Kathmandu. And hey, who can fault these farmers for trying to get a little more profit from their land? Supposedly the bricks sell for around .01USD apiece, but I guess it adds up, no?

Lotsa Chickens

I’m used to seeing street dogs, livestock, and other random animals while out jogging, biking, and whatnot, but Tana has an unusually large number of birds. Okay, maybe not in Tana proper, but in the residential areas and little villages around the periphery there are tons of chickens wandering the streets. I have come very close to stepping on them and hitting them with my bike so many times already.

I have also seen farmers tending to a flocks of ducks and geese. Maybe they are just hear to supply restaurants serving French dishes? There is also a house on my regular running route that has turkeys that roam freely in the dirt road in front. Oh, and I passed a couple guinea fowl today… are those pets?

If that avian flu thing hits here, we are in trouble!

Rickshaws?

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Over the weekend, I traveled to Antsirabe which is Madagascar’s third largest city with about 200,000 people. Considering very few people in the city seem to own a car, the roads seem pretty quiet, especially after the chaos of Tana. There are still some annoying mini buses, but there is a curious form of transport that seems super popular in Antsirabe: rickshaw!

Personally, I think it is a pretty crazy form of transport which I can’t quite get my head around. I don’t mind paying a taxi when I don’t have my own wheels, but why pay a guy to run you around town, when you have two feet of your own?!? My guidebook suggests tipping generously in order to help lift these guys out of poverty. Despite persistent offers to run me up the road, I just preferred to walk myself. At least they are colorful?

Bonus: Did you know the word rickshaw comes from Japanese? The original word is Jin-Riki-Sha which is made-up of three Chinese characters which mean People-Power-Vehicle :)

Mountain Biking

As expected, it looks like Madagascar is going to be a great place for mountain biking for me. Maybe the mountains around Tana are not too serious, but the fact that people walk all around the hills makes all kinds of fun singletrack trails to explore. Other routes are just dirt roads which would qualify more as off-road than mountain biking, but

Saw My First Swarm of Locusts

I didn’t get a photo, but it was basically as you might imagine… as in a cartoon or exaggerated CG shot from a film. We were driving just 50km south of Tana along National Route 7 when I saw this black cloud over the hill to the left. I mentioned it to my friend and he said we should roll up the windows.

As we approached, the locusts started to hit the windshield. I got a good look at one as it languished on the window, but still no photo. My friend explained that they consume all vegetation in their path and move on. The area looked green enough to me, so there was no obvious evidence of their wrath, but I can see how they could be a serious nuisance!

Apparently such locust problems are not so common globally. A quick search online indicates that serious locust problems have struck here-and-there or now-and-again, but the current problem in Madagascar attracted the attracted the attention of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN (FAO) because if it is not stopped early, it can lead to years of food insecurity among affected areas.

Bonus: Locusts are actually just grasshoppers that get really excited, overbreed, and swarm together in a somewhat atypical way. Once they get going, they almost behave like another species, but they are really just grasshoppers.

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At Least It Looks Nice

Since I work in finance, you might guess that I have a decent collection of local currency from around the world. My favorite bill so far is a color one from Indonesia with an Orang Utan on it. Most countries have at least one nice bill, but Madagascar has a whole colorful family of bills and they are pretty clean too!

The current Ariary only replaced the old Malagasy Francs about ten years ago, so the bills are all modern and colorful and show a variety of cool things that Malagasy’s are proud of, it seems.

I thought that seven different denominations seemed like a lot until I realized that the US has six that are commonly used. Japan, on the other hand, has only three bills, partly because coins cover all the transactions under 10USD. There are coins here in Madagascar, but they are not so commonly used because the smallest paper bill is worth about 0.04USD.

Narrow Streets

I had heard that traffic is a pain here and that I should get a small car to reduce the stress of driving in the city. These photos
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were taken early in the morning when not many people are out, but they give you a feel for how narrow the roads are and how people just walk along the side of the roads. Often cars have to pull off to the side to let an oncoming truck pass. Some just honk and expect the pedestrians to move, and generally cars are often passing within centimeters of hitting someone. I have not seen any accidents so far, so it seems like another case of controlled chaos, but driving in Antananarivo is definitely more challenging that in La Paz, Addis Ababa, or Tokyo.

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Anyway, the upside of this is that you can see all of the people, and shops, and animals from a car because life is happening all along the streets and in some cases, in the middle of the streets. My little morning commute provides some nice surprises of people carrying goods, selling wares, and heading off to school or work. I’m glad I don’t have to drive myself yet, so I can just enjoy the view!

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