Category Archives: Daily Life

Merci

It’s a bit frustrating to have studied French before coming to Madagascar, because most people don’t really speak French, but the ones who do, speak much better than me, and some also speak English better than I speak French. Walking around the capital city, your chance of finding a French speaker is pretty low, but when jogging or biking through the countryside, you are lucky to get more than a basic greeting in French.

People see me running their way in the morning and they want to say something. Okay, some just look away and others laugh, but some want to make a polite greeting. The problem is that many people can’t think of anything else in French except “Merci!” I’m sure they have learned “Bon Jour” and “Salut” but when surprised by a funny white guy early some morning, many can’t think of anything else but “Merci.”

I say this not to belittle their education or brag about my French comprehension skills. It is just an example of how little French is really used here. I recently went to a big workshop attended by senior government officials and many well-educated people. The opening speeches were generally in French, but one people broke-out into groups to get down to business, Malagasy was the preferred language.

I generally answer people in the language they use, and yes, a few people say “Hello” or “Good Morning.” I’m just happy that people are friendly and make an effort. It is nice to be in a generally welcoming environment :)

Brick Season

Winter is not so cold here near the equator, but the slightly shorter days a lack of rain mean that most rice fields around here are asleep for the season. However, the fields are not silent, farmers still head out every morning to mold the soil and cultivate the land, their product: bricks.

IMG_5933.JPG

Yes, there are cities made of wood, and others made of concrete, but Tana is mostly a city of bricks. And the bricks don’t come from a home improvement store or a big corporation… most come from regular farmers who dig up the clay from their rice paddies, pack it into squares, and fire it in makeshift furnaces made from last year’s bricks.

I’m not too fond of the smoke I encounter when I run along the paddies in the morning, but it doesn’t pollute the city the same way the brick production puts a cloud over Kathmandu. And hey, who can fault these farmers for trying to get a little more profit from their land? Supposedly the bricks sell for around .01USD apiece, but I guess it adds up, no?

Lotsa Chickens

I’m used to seeing street dogs, livestock, and other random animals while out jogging, biking, and whatnot, but Tana has an unusually large number of birds. Okay, maybe not in Tana proper, but in the residential areas and little villages around the periphery there are tons of chickens wandering the streets. I have come very close to stepping on them and hitting them with my bike so many times already.

I have also seen farmers tending to a flocks of ducks and geese. Maybe they are just hear to supply restaurants serving French dishes? There is also a house on my regular running route that has turkeys that roam freely in the dirt road in front. Oh, and I passed a couple guinea fowl today… are those pets?

If that avian flu thing hits here, we are in trouble!

Rickshaws?

20140713-215057-78657574.jpg

Over the weekend, I traveled to Antsirabe which is Madagascar’s third largest city with about 200,000 people. Considering very few people in the city seem to own a car, the roads seem pretty quiet, especially after the chaos of Tana. There are still some annoying mini buses, but there is a curious form of transport that seems super popular in Antsirabe: rickshaw!

Personally, I think it is a pretty crazy form of transport which I can’t quite get my head around. I don’t mind paying a taxi when I don’t have my own wheels, but why pay a guy to run you around town, when you have two feet of your own?!? My guidebook suggests tipping generously in order to help lift these guys out of poverty. Despite persistent offers to run me up the road, I just preferred to walk myself. At least they are colorful?

Bonus: Did you know the word rickshaw comes from Japanese? The original word is Jin-Riki-Sha which is made-up of three Chinese characters which mean People-Power-Vehicle :)

20140617-214945-78585057.jpg

At Least It Looks Nice

Since I work in finance, you might guess that I have a decent collection of local currency from around the world. My favorite bill so far is a color one from Indonesia with an Orang Utan on it. Most countries have at least one nice bill, but Madagascar has a whole colorful family of bills and they are pretty clean too!

The current Ariary only replaced the old Malagasy Francs about ten years ago, so the bills are all modern and colorful and show a variety of cool things that Malagasy’s are proud of, it seems.

I thought that seven different denominations seemed like a lot until I realized that the US has six that are commonly used. Japan, on the other hand, has only three bills, partly because coins cover all the transactions under 10USD. There are coins here in Madagascar, but they are not so commonly used because the smallest paper bill is worth about 0.04USD.

Narrow Streets

I had heard that traffic is a pain here and that I should get a small car to reduce the stress of driving in the city. These photos
20140617-215744-79064495.jpg

were taken early in the morning when not many people are out, but they give you a feel for how narrow the roads are and how people just walk along the side of the roads. Often cars have to pull off to the side to let an oncoming truck pass. Some just honk and expect the pedestrians to move, and generally cars are often passing within centimeters of hitting someone. I have not seen any accidents so far, so it seems like another case of controlled chaos, but driving in Antananarivo is definitely more challenging that in La Paz, Addis Ababa, or Tokyo.

20140617-215745-79065269.jpg

Anyway, the upside of this is that you can see all of the people, and shops, and animals from a car because life is happening all along the streets and in some cases, in the middle of the streets. My little morning commute provides some nice surprises of people carrying goods, selling wares, and heading off to school or work. I’m glad I don’t have to drive myself yet, so I can just enjoy the view!

20140617-215743-79063759.jpg

Well-Stocked Food Shops

In some countries, people say that you can find anything you want, but it is just expensive. I have not found that to be true in Ethiopia or Bolivia which are both landlocked with capital cities in the central highlands. There was not much ice cream in Ethiopia, for example, and not much variety of seafood in Bolivia maybe. Some of this is just a matter of local taste manifested in high or low demand, but basic logistical problems seem to play a part…

Anyway, I am surprised to see that food shops here are surprisingly well stocked. This is partly because they are run by some very big French (Leader Price and Jumbo) and South African (Shoprite) companies that bring containers full of all kinds of things from abroad. There is German cheese, French pizza, Swiss muelix, South African wine, etc. Much of it costs twice as much as it would back home, but it is amazing that this stuff is available.

20140617-221312-79992719.jpg

It might seem strange to import so much food so far around the world, but that’s what is already happening in wealthy countries: apples from Chile, oranges from Spain. My favorite frozen fish dinner from Trader Joes in Washington DC came from France! Anyway, it is nice to see that there are also some good local products like yogurts, honey, fruit, potato chips, etc. It all looks good to me…

20140617-220749-79669758.jpg